Travel information with destination guide in Bugis (Arab Street) by GuideRooms.com   

Bugis has a lurid past. Originally named after the bloodthirsty race of pirates who prowled in the Straits before the arrival of the British, for a long time the area was Singapore's equivalent of Patpong, a red-light district known for its bars and transvestite prostitutes or katies (the anglicized version of the Thai kathoey). However, in 1985 the area was redeveloped with a vengeance, turning it into a sanitized shopping experience for the whole family.

Neighboring Kampong Glam, also known by the name of its main thoroughfare Arab Street, was where Singapore's Arab traders settled in the founding days of the colony. But here too the original inhabitants fled in the 1920s as real-estate prices drove through the roof, and today the heart of Muslim Singapore beats in Geylang Serai on the East Coast.

So what's left then? A slice of modern Singapore at its most hyperactive: hundreds upon hundreds of shops and restaurants, several attractive promenades and a bazaar selling the cheapest T-shirts in town. Head here on a weekend to experience Singaporean consumerism at its finest.

Get around

The pedestrian sections of Albert St and Waterloo St make exploring the area on foot a pleasure. Getting to Kampong Glam from Bugis is a slightly longer hike though, hop on any northbound bus on Victoria Rd for a few stops to shortcut the distance.

How to get there

The Bugis and Lavender MRT stations on the East-West line are the primary entry points into the district.

If exiting at Bugis, the key roads are Rochor Rd and Victoria St. Walk north on Victoria St until you spot the golden domes of the Sultan Mosque; turn left here for Arab St, or keep walking north for Lavender MRT. Alternatively, head west on Rochor Rd to reach Little India, within easy walking distance; or head south on Victoria St to return to Orchard Road.

Product

• Parco Bugis Junction, 200 Victoria Street (MRT Bugis). Singapore's teenage heaven, run by the folks behind Shibuya's Parco — and there's a distinct Japanese vibe in the area with plenty of Japanese-themed shops and restaurants, including the Seiyu department store, minimalist home decoration shop Muji (Seiyu 2F) and much more. At the center of the mall are the restored shophouses of Hylam and Malay Streets, covered with a roof for shopping in any weather; also check out the ever-surprising fountain in the middle of Bugis Square. For many tiny boutiques selling affordable local young fashion, check out the Zone on the third floor of the Junction.

Right across Victoria St, Bugis Street no longer has bars and transvestites, but it does have a bazaar that sells all sorts of vaguely touristy knick-knacks. This is the cheapest place in Singapore to buy T-shirts for the folks back home, although the quality of those $2 shirts is pretty much what you'd expect. If you haven't sampled tropical fruits yet, take a look at the fruit stalls at the other end.

• ButtOn Trendy Undies, bazaar, 2nd floor. Sells Singapore's funkiest collection of underwear. How about Hello Kitty panties or a Funky Year of the Monkey thong?

If you continue walking straight through Bugis Street, you'll reach the Albert Street and Waterloo Street pedestrian mall. Browse through shops offering Buddhist paraphernalia and take a peek at the two temples on Waterloo St. Keep going straight to reach electronics haven Sim Lim Square and beyond it Little India.

• Sin Chew Chinese Cultural Products Supermart, 192 Waterloo St. True to the name, this store packs in vast quantities of Buddhas and Confucian deities, glittering in gold, blinking lights and all shades of kitsch. Note the statue of Hotei the "Laughing Buddha" outside — there is a steady crowd trooping up to rub his big belly, hoping to catch some of his good luck.

Many of the stores on Arab Street specialize in batik and silk. Be prepared to bargain. The parallel Haji Lane has in recent years emerged as a prominent location for both second-hand clothing and trendy street fashion, featuring the works of both local designers and imported wares from Japan and the States.

Bugis (Arab Street) attractions

• Except for the odd mosque or temple there are few attractions per se in Bugis. Do as the Singaporeans do and window-shop your way through, stopping for quick eats every now and then.

• Kuan Yin Thong Hood Cho, 178 Waterloo St. Dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. According to legend wishes made in here come true, which would explain why it's always packed. The procedure goes like this: enter, light some joss sticks, pray, then shake a container of cham si (bamboo sticks) until one falls out. Get a free matching slip with verses (also in English) explaining your fate, and maybe take it to one of the resident soothsayers for more explanation. Free, although voluntary donations are accepted.

• Malay Heritage Centre, 85 Sultan Gate. Mon-Sat 10 AM-6 PM. Set on the grounds of beautifully restored Istana Kampong Glam, the site looks gorgeous from the outside but, despite some half-hearted attempts at whiz-bang multimedia, the museum inside is rather disappointing. Free entry onto the grounds, $3 for the museum.

• Sultan Mosque, 3 Muscat St (off North Bridge Rd). 9 AM-1 PM, 2-4 PM daily. Also known as Masjid Sultan and the largest mosque in Singapore, the building is easily identified thanks to its golden domes, but there's not much to see inside. Note that shorts, short skirts or sleeveless T-shirts are not permissible attire, but you can borrow a cloak if needed. Free.

• Sri Krishnan, 152 Waterloo St. A Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu. Right next door to Kuan Yin Thong Hood Cho, and there's a steady stream of Chinese visitors hedging their bets by making offerings to the Hindu gods too. Free.